We left Savannah rather late in the day and we had 4 or 5 miles to go down river to get back to the ICW. As a result, we were not going to go very far today, besides we wanted to spend some time in Beaufort, SC.
We arrived at Port Royal Marina in Beaufort at around 4 PM. We were fighting the tidal current most of the way, but still managed to go around 40 miles today.
A long ramp from our dock to the office, showers and laundry.
When we arrived we did a little cleanup of the boat, we removed the rear carpet and hosed it down on the bow and left it there overnight to dry.
First stop in Beaufort needed to be a NAPA store so I could get oil for an oil change. Caterpillar engines only use a straight grade oil which had been hard to find until I stumbled on a NAPA store in Gulfport Florida and found out that NAPA carries it. I had bought all they had at Titusville when we were there (2 cases). We had put more than 250 hours on the engines since the last change in Gulfport. I am going to change the oil when we get to Norfolk and have a little down time.
The marina had a courtesy car (truck) that they let us use, so the next day we went and got 3 cases of oil to complement the 2 that I already had. Each engine takes 28 quarts when changing, so that gives me a little extra. Luckily they have not burned much at all.
Cindy’s Observations: Yes Maam and Yes Sir are the norm since we left Florida. And lets not forget the sweet tea. Southern charm is definitely a delightful manner, from whatever zip code you come from.
After we got the oil we took in the sights. We started out in the old part of downtown and saw a few places where movies were filmed. The old mansions make a fabulous backdrop for movies.
Verdier House Museum a federal-style 1700’s home open to the public
Beaufort Visitor Center located in the Beaufort Arsenal
Lewis Reeve Sams house circa 1852. Notice the worn marble slab steps
These are some of the antebellum mansions the town has to offer
Famous films shot in Beaufort include: Forest Gump (Fripp Island), The Big Chill, The Great Santini, G I Jane (Parris Island), Platoon and Forces of Nature.
After downtown, we made the obligatory shelling stop at the beach, complete with lighthouse photographs.
Cindy’s Observations: Beaufort sets on Port Royal Island. Southern Living readers named Beaufort “Best Small Southern Town.” Garden and Gun magazine called Beaufort “Southern Dream Town.” Money magazine counted it as one of “6 Terrific Towns on the Water.” ”Traveling the ICW limits the ocean beach access. So if we have wheels, I’ll be there.
Hunting Island Lighthouse State Park
Running scenes for “Forrest Gump” and the Vietnam war scenes were shot on Hunting Island and Fripp Island past here.
I was excited to find a shark tooth on this beach.
Loggerhead turtle nests are very well protected
To the left of the lighthouse is the oil house. Standing drums housed the oil to burn the lighthouse lantern.
Spiral staircase inside
The morning of the April 17th, we left Beaufort and headed for Charleston SC. We stopped just short of Charleston at St Johns Yacht Harbor. They had probably the best courtesy car that we have used yet. We made a trip to Wal-Mart of course. It’s real easy to stop in a marina even though it costs when anchoring is free, but it’s nice to have the convenience of a car and prepared food. We always vow to anchor more, but the availability of good anchorages and the ability to tie up to something solid when the weather gets kind if dicey, is a plus that you can’t put a price on.
We left St. John’s Yacht Harbor the next morning and headed for Georgetown, SC. It was a historic town to visit and had cheaper fuel, so why not!!
A tug boat needing a tow boat
Getting ready to set some pilings for a dock.
Cindy’s Observations: I wonder if OSHA would approve of this fellow sitting in the mini excavator on a moving barge.
On the way we passed through Charleston Harbor and took a little jaunt out into the inlet to see and photograph Ft Sumter. The place where the first shots of the Civil War were fired. We didn’t stop because you need to go to Charleston and get a tour boat to do that.
Charleston Harbor
Ft Sumter
Fog
After we left the Harbor and rejoined the ICW, we heard someone hailing the coast guard. They were reporting an overturned boat in the harbor at Charleston with people still clinging to the boat, WITH NO LIFEJACKETS ON. The first boat there fished the life jackets out of the water and brought them to the overturned boat. Afterward they brought the people onboard and secured the boat to an ATON (Aid To Navigation)(Buoy) to be picked up later. They arranged with the Coast Guard to pick up the survivors from their boat. I guess we were just a little early or not paying enough attention to have seen them when we went through that area.
By the time we had arrived at Georgetown’s Hazzard Marina, the wind had picked up and the rain was threatening. The forecast was showing wind and rain for the next day also, so we told the dockhand to put us down for 2 nights. We were tied to something solid, and restaurants were within walking distance. What else could you ask for? Cheap fuel you say? Got that too, and filled up while we had the chance.
Coast Guard’s new 4 million dollar rescue boat. Just taking delivery.
Another “Bucket List” that makes 2 of us!!
Cindy’s Observations: Another lovely southern town filled with charm.
Clock Tower
Art Deco movie house
Board walk after dinner
Myrtle Beach SC
We left Georgetown on Saturday 4/20 headed for Myrtle Beach S.C. I located an inexpensive marina close to downtown so we could see the sights. It was also close to a West Marine and a grocery store. I called all day on the phone and could not reach anybody. All I could get was a voice mail, so I left my number (many times) and hoped that they would call back. None of the anchorages looked like any that I would want to stay in, so I was opting for a marina. As the day went on I got a little panicked. I wanted a confirmed place to stay BEFORE we got there. So, back to the guides, and I found a Yacht Club that takes transients and gave them a call. Luckily, they had room and put us up for the night. They offered to let us eat at their Yacht Club, but we walked a block or two to a McDonalds and had a burger there.
Cindy’s Observations: Even Julia Child loved MickeyD’s french fries. Some things you just get a craving for.
Coffee water has replaced our pretty sea green aqua.. The tannins from the cypress and juniper trees stain the water which in turn, give the bow a brown mustache.
Golf courses line the ICW from Florida to South Carolina and beyond. They are manicured and can accommodate any avid duffer.
Another first, gondola for golfers complete with club racks. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, BAM! Well I’ll be.
VOR station for aircraft navigation
We left Myrtle Beach Yacht Club Marina in the morning, heading for an anchorage or marina a few miles up the Cape Fear River.
Southport N.C.
Wow, now we know why they call it the Cape Fear River!! We rounded the corner into the river from the ICW and immediately ran into 4ft+ waves!! The wind was blowing hard out of the north, and the river was flowing south at a pretty good clip, which made for some pretty BIG waves. We had just passed a marina at Southport N.C. about a quarter of a mile back, so we frantically looked up the phone number and gave them a call. They had room!!! we fought our way to the dock in the wind through a shallow channel and managed to tie up. We were immediately followed in by 3 sailboats that ducked in out of the weather also. As they were docking we heard another boat call in for a slip and was turned away. We had gotten the LAST one. They had open slips, but did not trust anyone to navigate through the marina to get to them. The wind was just that bad.
The calm before the waves. Gentle turns with gentle ripples look so serene.
Cape Fear should be FEARED. At this point it became too windy to take any more pictures. The canvas sounded like a dozen drums pounding on the bimini top. The isinglass was being sucked in and out, vibrating continually. Larry could hardly hear the marine radio.
We stayed there at Southport Marina for two nights, until the wind died down. A good time to catch up on blogging.
There are always good things that come from adversity. We met Jeff and Grace from “SeaGlide” who were also hiding from the weather. They had just started the loop a few days earlier. Blue Herron was also taking refuge there. Last time with them was at the fall rendezvous in Alabama.
Cindy’s Observations: Grace, bless her heart was impressed with my line handling skills. She said she hopes to get proficient too. I assured her in a short time she will. Jeff was full of energy and could hardly stand the thought of having to wait to continue their voyage.
Dudley's Marina
We left 2 days later on Tues the 23 with our new found friends on SeaGlide. We were heading for an anchorage at Camp LeJeune, the Marine training facility. The anchorage is called Mile Hammock Bay. It is sometimes crowded, and sometime being used by the Marines for training so we just had to wait until we got there to see what was up.
Exotic pets can sometimes be seen on the waterways.
Eccentric homes are more plentiful.
As we approached, it looked full of sailboats, so we decided to move on. SeaGlide told us of a “primitive” marina at Swansboro N.C. that was inexpensive and we called and made a reservation. First we had to wait for a broken lift bridge. The bridge was maintained by the Marine base and must have had someone on call, because they arrived within an hour and had us on our way.
Osprey MV-22 (un-feathered kind)
Needed to wait until they fixed this one, No going under it!
Dudley’s Marina was indeed primitive. I was almost afraid to step off onto the dock, for fear of it collapsing. They did take us to a real nice steak house and drop us off. The owner of the steak house took us back to the boat when we were finished. For the price of the meal, he should have carried us back to the boat on his back. It was good but pricey.
Watch where you step!
Beaufort NC
Leaving Dudley’s, we decided to move up a little and stay at a little better marina. We stopped at Morehead City, just across the bay from Beaufort NC. This was a better marina, but was exposed to the harbor and was a little rough. The wind was still kicking up a bit and we wanted to do some sightseeing, so we stayed for 2 nights.
“Turn left at the crane to find the marina”
Morehead City Marina
Fort Macon
We have been to several forts, all with their own appeal.
Furnace to heat cannon balls
We have been using Enterprise for rental cars for quite a while, and when I looked up my “points”, I found out I could rent a car for 37 cents for the day. So I did! Jeff and Grace from Seaglide joined us and we explored a bit. We couldn’t get to the lighthouse that we wanted to see, so we settled for a trip to and old Civil War Fort and a trip to the beach to - - - (you guessed it) - - look for some more shells!!
Cindy’s Observations: April 25, my birthday was spent like no other. The best darn Bloody Mary's a girl could have, made by Randy and Vicki on Barefoot’n. Grace and Jeff ,Seaglide trekked into town and bought doughnuts for an impromptu birthday breakfast surprise aboard Barefoot’n. A nice way to start the day. Larry had arranged for a rental car with Seaglide joining us. Barefoot’n went on under way. We went to the fort, beach, where I found baby ear shells, and Olive Garden for dinner.
Path to the beach
Oriental, NC
Leaving Beaufort, we separated from SeaGlide. They wanted to try out an anchorage across the sound from the marina that we had chosen.
Entering channel to Whittaker Creek
Whittaker Point Marina was a nice little marina with a free courtesy car that we used to go into town. We docked across from Barefoot’n, who we had also seen at Southport and docked with at Beaufort.
Bel Haven
The next day we left for the town of BelHaven NC. They provide a free town dock including power. Both the Neuse River and Pamlico Sound quieted down for us today. Yesterday the wind was blowing up the water pretty bad again. That was another reason that we stopped at Oriental. It was convenient and protected.
When we arrived at BelHaven, it took us a while to find out just where the free dock was located. A friendly local called us on the radio and directed us to the correct spot. As we arrived, who should come walking up, SEAGLIDE!!! Jeff and Grace had a rough time out on the sound the day before and could not make it to the anchorage without some pretty big beam seas (from the side) so they continued on only to meet even bigger waves! I guess they got beat up pretty bad, so they made it a short day and came in to a marina here in BelHaven. The important thing is that they met me at the boat with a margarita! Sure made tying up the boat more pleasant.
Cindy’s Observations: Grace and Jeff know how to greet a looper with style. With margaritas in hand, they are catching on to this “safe arrival” drink pretty quick!
That night we met for dinner at a local restaurant with other loopers that were in the area.
Elizabeth City
The next morning we left after our dinner companions; SeaGlide, Blue Heron, Rick’n Roll and Knot So Fast. We played catch-up all day as we followed them through the Pungo River, Alligator-Pungo Canal, Alligator River, Ablemarle Sound, and the Pasquotank River. We traveled 102 miles today. Less than 100 miles to go to Norfolk. Looks like we will make it in plenty of time, weather permitting.
At first sighting we thought these were “Pungos” swimming across the Pungo River. Betsy on “Rick N Roll” had said she hadn’t seen any yet. Turns out, they were a pair of deer. We didn’t see any Alligators on the Alligator river either.
As you leave the Alligator River and head north, you need to have made a decision as to whether you are going through the Dismal Swamp or the route through the North River and Coinjock Bay. Blue Heron, Seaglide and us, took a left turn and headed toward the Dismal Swamp. The others went right to the other route. We had heard so much about the swamp that we just had to see it. Besides, it took us through Elizabeth City, which was known for it’s hospitality. They provided numerous free docks just to make you want to visit their city. As usual, Blue Heron arrived first and directed us to the best dock. The wind was blowing up the river and making some of them unusable, especially if you wanted to do any sleeping.
Blue Heron
Help Me Rhonda was tied up to the free city dock. Our overnight survival buddy boat crossing from Carabell to Tarpon Springs.
Elizabeth City has that Mayberry feeling.
Christ Church Episcopal 1856 National register of historic places
We enjoyed the town so much, that we stayed 4 nights!!
Museum of Albemarle
Cemetery
Wright Brothers history
Preserved old store front
Of course the wind and the morning fog also had something to do with it. Plus we were only a couple of days away from Norfolk and the dock here was free! The dock belonged to a company that supplies various restaurants around town and all we had to do was to eat 1 meal in one of the restaurants that they supply every day, and we could stay free. No water, no electricity but FREE!!! My kind of deal!
Seaglide behind us at the free dock. Look close at the bow to see our “mustache”.
Dismal Swamp
The morning of May 2, SeaGlide and we left for the visitors center in the Dismal Swamp. The visitors center had a free dock for about 4 boats and was located between the highway and the canal. It served double duty as a visitors center for both.
Dismal Swamp
This canal is the oldest hand dug waterway in the country still in use. Designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. Once used as part of the underground railroad for slaves, it also served as transportation for lumber. Cypress for ship building. Cedar for shingles.
First of 2 locks
Bubbles of tannin stained water fill the chamber. This water was considered to be a highly prized commodity for sailing ships. Chemically pure and bacteria resistant the amber colored water (bark of juniper, gum and cypress) was stored in kegs. It was claimed to have healing properties.
Swing bridge at visitor center had to be opened for boats
Our looper convoy. Bucket List, Seaglide, How Lucky Again and Q’s Cabin.
Trail in Dismal State Park
Two sail boats had rafted up to our convoy for the evening.
One night at the visitors center and we were off for Norfolk.
Only about 30 miles and 1 lock to go through today. Should be a piece of cake.
Virginia welcome sign
Some of the original canal posts are still intact along the canal. George Washington was a surveyor who helped plan the canal.
Cypress and juniper posts were used to construct the walls. The canal is 22 miles long.
Norfolk, VA
Other than the wind in the lock blowing boats around, it was a pretty uneventful day. We arrived at the Norfolk Waterside Marina and tied up in our slip. Norfolk hosts the spring rendezvous for the AGLCA. The seminars and vendors provide information and materials needed to travel the upper half of the route. From Norfolk north up the Atlantic ICW and into Canada across the Great Lakes and down Chicgo into the river system to Alabama.
Railroad bridge
Entering Norfolk and Portsmouth you are in the largest naval station of the US. Ship yard upon ship yard lined the water front.
Patrol boats on constant lookout for intruders. Step away from the ships.
Waterside Marina
Shortly after arriving Greg, from Blue Heron, and I, had Enterprise pick us up and take us to get us each a rental car. $9.99 a day from Friday until Monday at noon. $30 for a weekend unlimited mileage, pretty good deal! On Monday I called and kept the car for the rest of the week. My sister Carol and niece Annette were arriving this week to spend some time with us on the boat while we were in Norfolk.
Coffin Corner
The only slip that had a name.
It takes skill to dock in a slip this size and Larry “nailed” it!
The Best Mates job is to keep the ship in shape. So hoist me up to polish the davits, Captain. Bucket List needs to be ready for inspection, guests are coming aboard.
Carol and Annette were our on board guests in Norfolk. While Larry attended seminars, we were checking out the area. I was having “me” time with the girls, we went to the mall!!!
In front of the Douglas MacArthur museum stands a Zero Mile Stone. A point of measurement for distance from Norfolk on highways of the US. (Boy Scouts 1929)
Poseidon stands watch over Virginia Beach.
The sand on Virginia beach was dark and swallowed your feet. It was very strenuous to walk on.
Battleship Wisconsin
Nauticus and the Hampton Roads Naval Museum
Can you tell they are related? Waiting for the “wait for it” crazy photographer.
Mermaid art was scattered about the city. For some mermaid trivia look up Starbucks logo.
This man likes a woman with big…
Since this restaurant was close to the boat , we enjoyed a few meals here, and drinks.
We had a very nice visit with Larry’s sister and niece. They enjoyed meeting fellow loopers and touring some boats on the crawl. Larry had taken them to the airport early the morning we left. Next stop, Deltaville on the Chesapeake Bay.
