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Monday, December 17, 2012

Port St Joe to Carabelle

There had been fog every morning for the last two days.  The forecast for the morning was for dense fog until around 9.  This could be a problem.  We have about 50 miles to go to get to Carabelle, FL.  We got a call from "Help me Rhonda" who is already at Carabelle, and they want us to travel with them across the gulf to Tarpon Springs along with another boat "Blewgrass".

Cindy's Observations:  Port St. Joe which is nicknamed the Constitution City is the largest city in Gulf County.  While here we watched the process of clams and oysters being scraped off the pilings in the harbor.  Dinghies will get punctured and gel coats can be scratched if these shells are not routinely removed.  Along the beach I found some nice scallop shells.
While here we reunited  with fellow loopers and met some new ones.  We had discussed crossing and planned on crossing with 2 other boats from Carabelle
They say there is safety in numbers, so we were pleased to hear we had a flotilla of 3 for our crossing.  This would be our last relaxing day prior to crossing.

Port St Joe
Abandoned sailboat aground at Port St Joe

Woke up early to check the weather and it was beautiful!!  The fog did not materialize!!  We got ready and headed out.  We were following another looper (Prime Time) out, but they were traveling faster and stopping at Apalachicola.  Since we got an early start, I throttled back to save a little fuel.  We traveled about 7.5 mph today and the engines just sipped fuel.  When you went below, the engines sounded like sewing machines just humming away and not hardly working at all.

Entrance to Lake Wimico from the ICW
We went through Lake Wimico following the channel, it gets very very shallow if you venture outside the markings.  Luckily the route was straight and I could plot a course for the autopilot to follow.   I remember that when we were planning the trip, the question of an autopilot came up and the consensus was that it was not a necessary addition.  Boy, am I glad I put one in anyway!  Even if you only use it to maintain a compass heading it is valuable, but to be able to maintain a course following channel markers letting the autopilot fight the current, tides, and wind is priceless as they say.

Cindy's Observations:  Larry had been price shopping for the auto pilot.  He was excited when it all came in under his budget. Any gadget that makes his life easier on the boat is "priceless."
 Along this stretch were several nice private homes with lift docks.  Quite a few vividly colored A frames, ranch style and two-story houses provided a break in the shoreline. Palm trees and live oaks with Spanish moss are the most common trees.  Long needle pines are dotted in the landscape and make terrific mulch for the beds.  Betty L had told us to be on the look out for an eagles nests  here, which we did see, however, its difficult to zoom in enough for a picture.  Likewise with the eagle itself, too hard to capture with the camera.  We were able to make lasting memories in spite of no pictures.


I saw on the charts that there was a railroad bridge with an 8 ft clearance just this side of Apalachicola that you need to call for an opening.  Luckily the bridge was already open so I didn't need to call them.  In fact it didn't look like the bridge had been closed in a long time.  The charts that we are using are somewhat dated but the price was right and what is the chance of them moving the waterway or cities?  We found a few bridges that were not on the charts, and a few that were on the charts but nonexistent, but that presented no problem.  I usually cross check the paper charts, my plotter charts, and the Skipper Bob cruising guide to keep up with everything and not have too many surprises.

Cindy's Observations:  Knowing past loopers is a great advantage when it comes to charts needed for the journey.  We sent a donation to Pats uncle and aunt for sending their charts to us.  Tumble Weed has graciously loaned us his charts till our journeys end.  Like Larry says, the rivers and channels do not change.  We use a combination of charts, guide books and waterway guides published by the corp of engineers.  Plus word of mouth from fellow loopers.  Blogs are the more preferred method for AGLCA members.

Railroad swing bridge
 
When we left lake Wimico we entered the Apalachicola River which we followed all of the way to Apalachicola.  At Apalachicola we entered into Apalachicola Bay and were pretty much in open water from there to Carabelle.  We had a few Porpoise follow along for the ride and saw a lot of small boats that were getting Oysters off the bottom in the shallow areas.  The Bay was large, but you needed to follow the charted course because it did get shallow in places.  Those places are abundant with Oysters,  A taste for which I haven't quite acquired.  Fried yes, Broiled yes, but raw - not quite yet.  Maybe by the time we are ready to leave Florida I will have tried them at least once.
 
Cindy's Observations: Porpoise always get our attention and keep us alert.  Mommas with babies are the more favored to watch.  The playful ones will do an out of the water jump and splash.  When we are anchored and the dolphins surface, you can distinctly hear the forceful exhale from their blow hole. Baby dolphin are born live about half the size of the mother and stay with her for 4 years.  The pod feeds twice a day, am and sunset by swimming in a large circle forcing fish into the center and closing the circle for a mass feed.
 
Apalachicola Bay (with porpoise)
 
Bay water is not as clear

 
Harvesting Oysters
 
Bridge over Apalachicola Bay
Cindy's Observations:    Apalachicola was once the 3rd largest port on the gulf of  Mexico founded in 1831 with cotton and lumber being its largest trade. Today it harvests more than 90 percent of the states oyster consumption.  Another fact of Apalachicola is during the time of yellow fever a former mayor, Dr. John Gorrie, developed and patented an ice machine to keep the ill comfortable in a cool room.  He was the pioneer  for air conditioning and refrigeration.
There were several oyster boats in the bay collecting oysters with a long handle type of rake called "tongs."   One person stands and collects , the other person sits and "culls."   Too small and the dead ones are thrown back.  This practice has been ongoing for over 100 years.
 
Leaving Apalachicola Bay, we immediately came into Carabelle.  It's basically a fishing village and nothing very special for tourists.  Cheap fuel and a place to wait out the weather for a smooth crossing.
 
Carabelle Harbor

Carabelle
 
Law enforcement is serious here

The Moorings at Carabelle
We went to eat at a local restaurant (only one in town that was open and within walking distance) and settled down for hopefully a good nights rest.  It was really hard with the anticipation of what was coming the next day.  The part of the cruise that we had been dreading since before we left!!
 
Cindy's Observations:  Ok so now I am getting anxious and nervous, can't really say excited about the crossing.  We know it may or may not be a pleasant experience, but all things look good so far.  The seas were forecast to be calm.  For this time of year it was unusually mild and calm this many days in a row for December.  Before dinner we had a briefing with 3 couples, two from Blewgrass on their boat  and  one couple from Help Me Rhonda discussing the route.  After the briefing we met the two couples from Blewgrass at The Fisherman's Wife restaurant.  We were all geared up for the next days adventure.  In the morning I took a glimpse at the two more interesting features of the town.
 
WW II Museum
 
Carabelle Police Station
 Cindy's Observations:  Carabelle was first known as "Rio Carabella," meaning beautiful river.  It is located on the southwestern tip of St. James Island.
Back in 1942 to 1946 Camp Gordon Johnston trained 250,000 WWII soldiers for amphibious landings and shore combat.  The landscape on the island provided the terrain needed for foot soldiers and Dog Island met the demands for the WWII DUKW amphibious landings.
Here you will also find the "Worlds Smallest Police Station."  A 1960 phone booth. 
 
 
 

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